The Wine Cellar

Winecology: Domaine Rijckaert - Vigne des Voises Vielles Vignes - Cotes de Jura, Burgundy - 2001

2005-03-04T11:58:00.000-08:00

Burgundy is the traditional home of chardonnay. Jura, in the south of Burgundy, is where Domaine Rijckaert ("ray" - "cart") calls home. In 1998, dutchman Jean Rijckaert enjoyed the maiden vintage of his own label after seeking out affordable vineyard plots in and around Jura (just each of the much-pricier Beaune region of Burgundy). His wines are known for their exceptional value in one of France's most pricey neighborhoods.

Rich gold color in the glass. Presents rich aromas of lemon/lime rinds and minerals. On the palette the wine was steely, juicy and tart. Complex flavor profile of lemon/line fruit, hazelnuts and a touch of banana (?). Great texture and depth. Well balanced with a solid finish. The wine had even more depth and concentration on day 3. One of Burgundy's best QPR domaines and a great contrast/alternative to California chardonnay.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $11 (a steal)

Master Sommelier Update

2005-03-04T11:54:00.000-08:00

And the elite circle grows...

Record Number Earn Master Sommelier Diploma; Eleven Wine Professionals Awarded Master Sommelier Title

So You Want to be a Master Sommelier

2005-02-28T16:06:00.000-08:00

Q. What wine society has only 118 members world-wide? And 60 in the U.S?
A. The Court of Master Sommeliers

Why would one join this elite fraternity?

Your affinity for wine, food, service and hospitality is beyond that of most mortals
You'd like the Master Sommelier Certification as a passport to notoriety and opportunities for wealth in the food and wine service industry

How can one become certifed? Its simple, really. Just a little three part certification - introductory, advanced and Master Sommelier Diploma - as follows:

Part 1: Introductory Certification
Topics covered include: world wine regions including appellation regulations, viticulture, wine/spirit production, food & wine pairing, wine service and wine tasting skills. Certification at this level requires passing a multiple choice exam with at least 60% of answers correct.

Prior to taking the next step, the Court warns that one should be able to,"recite from memory facts such as Grands Crus of the Cote de Nuits, the satellites of St. Emilion, the districts of Chianti, the AVAs of Sonoma County, or the Bereiche of the Rheinhessen".

Part II: Advanced Certification
Topics covered are the same as the introductory course, however in much more depth and detail. Certification is in three steps. First is the one hour, 82 question (20 multiple choice and 62 short answer) writtten exam.

Second, a blind tasting of six wines in front of two Master Sommeliers. The candidate has 25 minutes to identify all six wines and is evaluated on technique and accuracy.

Third and last, is an obstacle course in restaurant service. Master Sommolier examiners throw the kitchen sink at candidates as they run the gauntlet of opening, decanting and serving wines, spirts and cigars; pair wine with food; set tables; and manage the duties of practical service and salesmanship. Once again, 60% is required to pass on all three steps.

Part III: Master Sommelier Diploma
The format for the final Master Sommelier Diploma is the same as the Advanced Certification. At this stage, a score of 75% is required to pass. Testing is by invitation only and one must wait one year after Advanced Certification before attempting the Master Sommelier diploma.

The level of detail is excruciatingly difficult. For example, during the blind tasting, a candidate must identify grape varieties, country of origin, district of origin and vintages for the six wines tasted.

Over the 25+ year history of Master Sommelier Diploma, the pass rate for the final stage is around 3%. Good luck!

Mitch Albom on Wine

2005-02-28T15:32:00.000-08:00

Detroit Free Press columnist and "Tuesday's With Morrie" author, Mitch Albom, rants on wine geekdom.

The article is amusing for what it's worth. But honestly, aren't there worse things than being an oenophile?

Winecology: Tenuta de Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino - Italy 1995

2005-02-23T19:42:00.000-08:00

Brunello is Italian for 'nice dark one'. And Montalcino is an ancient Tuscan village. Brunello di Montalcino, by deduction is a nice, dark wine made in Montalcino. It is a close to kin to the more familiar Chianti, only more austere. Montalcino also happens to be only 10% the size of the Chianti region. Accordingly supply and demand dictates that Brunello's tend to be more rare, sought after and expensive.

Both are made from Tuscany's sangiovese grape. However, whereas Chianti is often blended with other varietals to add depth and layering, Brunello de Montalcino is 100% sangiovese. It affords this non-blending luxury due to a warmer climate and the limestone soil where its grown. Additionally, Brunello di Montalcino must be aged for a minimum of four years (two in oak barrels) prior to release. These factors add up to what is generally considered Tuscany's most consistent high quality wine.

Tenuta de Caparzo is a picturesque 40 year old estate with a wide range of Brunello bottlings. This effort is their standard label, a far cry in price from their high-end "La Casa" bottling. Fear not though, even the standard label delivers the goods.

In the glass the wine showed opaque ruby red colors with hints of browning on the rim. The nose boasted ripe fruit aromas of strawberry, cassis, cherry. Once in the mouth more cassis fruit and candied cherries carried through the mid-palette. But this is definitely not a fruit bomb. Oak provides for a velvety mouthfeel and soft tannins provide structure. All the pieces were in place for this elegant wine. The finish was supple, but sadly only modest in length. A great showing.

Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $40

Winecology: Guardian Peak - Frontier - Namaqualand, South Africa - 2002

2005-02-16T20:14:00.000-08:00

The sixth edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday is hosted by Cook Sister - a native of South Africa. Accordingly, her theme is South African reds. Not too long ago I had an outstanding experience with a South African syrah, so I was really looking forward to sinking my teeth into this blend from Guardian Peak.

Guardian Peak is the second label of the historic and well respected Rust en Vrede Wine Estate, which consistently puts out well acclaimed wines. Their Guardian Peak label proudly embraces the natural environment of South Africa. In particular the winery seeks to protect and preserve the neighboring Kalahari desert, or Kalahari lion. The lion is proudly featured on Guardian Peak's label.

The Frontier offering is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Shiraz and 15% Merlot. In the glass it has dark purple, inky colors that fade to the rim. Initially the nose was alcoholic, but that quickly blows off and aromas of dark black fruit and tar develop. The palette features ripe dark fruits layered with smoke, dark chocolate and even some cigar box. The finish has length, but is slightly bitter. While the flavors of this wine were complex and rich, I was distracted by its lack of balance. The full flavored profile wasn't supported with the necessary structure and tannin. It was kind of like having a beautifully fabricated Armani suit that was several sizes to big. Ultimately, things just didn't fit.

I'd pass on this one in the future.

Rating - 7.0 out of 10
Price - $11

Influence of Blogs - Continued

2005-02-15T17:34:00.000-08:00

Fellow oenoblogger, Tom from the top-notch Fermentations, responds to the question I posed in yesterday's post about bloggers forcing a top CNN executive to resign: "How long before oenobloggers make similar marks?"

Tom makes two very important and accurate assertions in answering this question.

The best mainstream wine jouranlists have many advantages over bloggers in that they: work full-time in writing about wine, have access to resources like editors and benefit from industry contacts that only come with experience and credibility.
Oenobloggers are still collectively trying to figure what they want to be when they grow up - how to build an audience, how to become relevant, etc.

Tom concludes and answers that he "wouldn't count on" wine bloggers making a similar mark.

First of all, what did I mean by making "similar marks?" I don't think any wine blogger is looking to force a resignation or cause harm. I believe making a mark would entail causing the mainstream wine media and their readers to take notice of this small, budding on-line wine community and the information/opinions it has to offer. Making a BIG mark might include actually persuading a change in how and what the mainstream wine media reports (e.g. style, frequency, mode).

Second, I think Tom is wrong to say he "wouldn't count on" oenobloggers making a mark. Will a wine blogger ever attain Parker or Spectator influence? Probably not, but 25 years ago Parker was an unknown, unqualified voice too. Is that oenoblogging great hope around today? Not yet, but I'm optimistic someone will step up.

Third and last, to further illustrate my point, consider a recent thread of on the e-Robert Parker discussion board. The thread took esteemed wine writer Michael Broadbent to task (rather ruthlessly) for some off-the-record comments he made at a London dinner regarding the globalization of wine (The full story is detailed by the thread's originator and oenoblogger, Jamie Goode, who had no ill intent in initiating his post). Discussion of Broadbent's comments reached a furious pace and brought in over 50 posters and hundreds of comments on both sides of the debate. Broadbent, not an internet user, was faxed pages upon pages of this commentary by his son, a discussion board member. Broadbent replied and defended himself and his comments on the discussion board. Certainly he wasn't forced to resign or retire from wine writing - not even close. But he's taken notice of this on-line wine community - it's opinions and reach.

Upon reflection, I can't really answer my own question as to "how long" before oenobloggers make a mark. But how about a new question, "will oenobloggers one day make a mark?"

I'd count on it.

Another Mainstream Journalist Falls Victim to Blogs

2005-02-14T20:30:00.000-08:00

From the NYT: "Resignation at CNN Shows the Growing Influence of Blogs"

How long before oenobloggers make similar marks?

Winecology: Valentine's Dinner

2005-02-13T17:02:00.000-08:00

Maya and I had some goodies yesterday celebrating an early Valentine's day at Spring.

Veuve Clicquot "Yellow Label" - Champagne, France - NV
This classic sparkler was a delicious apertif before dinner. Something about those fine bubbles set the mood just right. In the glass lots of tiny bubbles set in dark gold and light orange colors. The nose gave toasty yeast and notes of tree fruit. On the palette this wine was well balanced showing plenty of zip and fruits - apples and pears. Concentrated, full flavors with a clean finish of moderate length.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $29

Palmina "Bianca" - Santa Barbara County, California - 2002
Palmina is having much success with indigenous Italian varietals in California. We enjoyed this unique blend of five white grapes - 35% Traminer, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Tocai Friulano, 15% Malvasia Bianca and 5% Pinot Grigio. It was a crisp, floral wine that paired great with the Oysters. Light straw, almost clear colors. An aromatic and heavily floral nose (a natural, upon reflection, since all five grapes utilized are floral at their core). In the mouth a racy and lively body. Very gewruz in nature. Plenty of white fruit and lychees. A substantial finish.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $28 (retail price, $10 / glass at the restaurant)

Fonthill "Dust of Ages" - McLaren Vale, Australia - 2002
This 100% grenache, from Fonthill down under, was our main course wine. The wine had dark ruby colors that faded to a very light, nearly clear, pink on the rim. The aromatic nose breathed oodles of ripe strawberries and spice. On the palette is was luscious, round and had an ultra-velvety texture. Flavors of dark, red fruits at its core were very reminiscent of pinot noir. Secondary flavors of subtle earth and spice reminded me of typical Rhone valley wines. In one word, smooth. A best of both worlds wine that will have me seeking out more 100% Grenache.
Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $24 (retail price, $65 / bottle at the restaurant)

Who Is Michel Rolland?

2005-02-09T19:26:00.000-08:00

There is much ado about this Frenchman and his wines in the oenophile world lately. Who exactly is Michel Rolland? And why should you care?

The Facts:

Michel Rolland is the foremost wine consultant in the world
His Bordeaux-based consulting practice has over 100 clients across 12 countries
His client roster reads like an oenophile’s wish list of must-have wines
He is a steadfast advocate for using technological developments in viticulture and winemaking to raise the quality of wine
He built his expertise while managing several Pomerol properties which he owns
He imparts a particular style or common denominator to the wines on which he works – heavy on the fruit and oak influenced
He is the reluctant star of a new documentary, Mondovino, which is critical of the globalization of wine and at times portrays him as the root of this evil
Michel Rolland is a lighting rod in the wine industry who is as despised as he is sought after

The Opinions and Criticisms:

Rolland has influence that matches or exceeds that of any single individual in the wine world
Rolland is creating wines that satisfy the tastes of a mass global market
Rolland is driving out the individuality and local essence of wines (e.g. terroir)
Rolland makes wines that strive for excellence on the same dimensions resulting in global variations on the same theme (i.e. his wines are “Pomerolled” or “Napa-ized”)
Rolland consults for a property and it’s wines become immediately credible and usually expensive
And last but not least… Jonathan Nossiter, creator of the aforementioned Mondovino, had this to say, “In the wine world there’s a tremendous standardization and uniformization of taste, from Australia to Chile to France to the U.S., across the globe and at every price level, from a $5 wine to a $500 wine. The classic fraud of our time, which is what Wal-Mart wants us to believe, is that, hey, you’ve got lots of choice at a lower price. Well, you’ve got a lot of different labels on these bottles, but man, the taste sure is the fucking same.”

My Take:
Plain and simple, I like good wine. It’s inconceivable to me that across the entire planet and across hundreds of grape varietals, the vast threat of homogeneity is about to ‘kill’ wine as we know it. If Rolland has made wine as-a-whole better, then that’s a good thing.

It seems to me that Rolland worked hard in studying the history of how great wine comes to be. He wrestled with and figured out possible answers to some tough questions: How much sun? How long before harvesting the grapes? What kind of oak to use? How long to age in barrels? And so on.

Low and behold, Rolland now understands how to make average wine really, really good and even great at times. He has created insights, ideas and techniques that if applied correctly can produce some beautiful juice. There is no silver bullet, magic potion or secret formula to make all wine great. Let alone unvaryingly, Orwellianly equal and great.

Perhaps, Rolland himself put it best.

“What I bring is a range of experience and a span of reference that other people here, however talented they might be, do not have…A consultant cannot know everything. I am here to give advice with an open mind to the resident winemaker. So the personality of the people is an essential. It’s fundamental. If you have no contact with the people, it’s impossible. I’m no magician.”

Winecology: Falset-Marca "Etim" - Montsant, Spain - 2002

2005-02-06T20:37:00.000-08:00

This wine comes from Spanish cooperative Falset-Marca, located in the ancient and isolated Priorat region - a relatively new addition to the mainstream global wine map. Priorat's wines are predominantly high-octane extracted reds, loaded with tannin, concentrated fruit and alcohol. These generous wines are a product of painstaking viticulture due to notoriously low-yielding vines. Priorat's climate and mountainous environment are anything but friendly. Extreme temperatures - hot days and cool nights - combined with rocky and arid soil are the norm. Grenache, carignan, tempranillo and syrah are grown with much success in Priorat.

The 2002 version of Falset-Marca's Etim blends the above four Priorat grapes. Initially this wine was tough and tight - firmly expressing its youth. After a couple hours of decanting, the good stuff was unleashed. The wine had a dark, dark ruby red color with a pronounced light purple on the rim. The nose breathed dark cherry, red licorice and spice. On the palette, ripe red fruits were concentrated and syrupy. Lots of cherry and strawberry. Zippy acidity compliments and balances the fruit. Tannin offers bite in the moderate finish. A great value with aging potential from Spain's shooting star region.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $10

Wine Deals on the Town in Chicago

2005-02-06T20:05:00.000-08:00

The Chicago Sun-Times ran a nice piece on specials that various restaurants and bars have been running in the city. A few in particular are noteworthy for the wine deals to be had...

Spiaggia, 980 N. Michigan
"5 for 5" a daily wine and cheese tasting menu for $25 at the dining room bar. A sampling of 5 artisan cheeses paired with 5 wines from one of the city's top restaurants.

Star Bar, 2934 N. Sheffield
Mondays - all sparkling wine bottles 1/2 off
Tuesdays - all wine by the glass $5
Wednesday - Veuve-Clicquot Yellow Label glasses $7

One SixtyBlue, 1400 W. Randolph
Monday & Thursday - bottles of wine greater than $40 are 1/2 off
Tuesdays - all wine by the glass 1/2 off

I'll be trying many of the above in the near future!

French Wine Woes - Marketing Edition

2005-02-02T20:33:00.000-08:00

Yeeesh. Is French winemaker Catherine Gachet too sexy? Have we stumbled upon the Bordeaux bible belt? What maniac approved these x-rated wine ads?

xAcceptable
xUnacceptable - too risqué.

Oh no...don't put that glass so close to your mouth! Your eyes - noooo!
It's no wonder French winemakers need a $90 million aid package to recuscitate business.

Winecology: Georges Duboeuf Fleurie - Flower Label - Beaujolais 2003

2005-02-01T19:45:00.000-08:00

2003 is truly a remarkable vintage for Beaujolais. The scorching heat wave of July and August that year created wines with depth and complexity not normally found in Beaujolais. This particular wine is from negociant Georges Duboeuf who is by most counts the king of Gamay - the primary varietal grown and produced in Beaujolais. Ten villages comprise the top 'Crus' of the Beaujolais region. These top Crus tend to create wines with more elegance than typical Beaujolais, which can be overtly fruity, generally simple and lacking complexity. Fleurie is one of those ten Cru.

This effort had light ruby colors that occasionally brought forward bluish purple hues. A fresh nose of fruity strawberry and cherry. Some floral notes developed over time as well. In the mouth, sharp tartness is well balanced by concentrated fruit. A velvety mouthfeel has more cherry and spice. The moderate length, smooth finish features strawberry creamsicle.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $12

Edited to correct Gamay as the "primary" not "only" varietal growin in Beaujolais.

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival

2005-02-01T19:36:00.000-08:00

Now that's what I call wine marketing - via Vinodiversity:

Winecology: D'arenberg "d'Arry's Original" - McLaren Vale, Australia - 2001

2005-01-30T19:51:00.000-08:00

Australia's red stripe winery, D'arenberg, has an historic past and vast portfolio of high quality wines to match. Luckily for us consumers many of these quality wines are available at fantastic value prices. This particular wine is named in honor of its third-generation owner "Francis d'Arenberg Osborn, universally known as d'Arry," who built the winery's current reputation and identity. According to D'arenberg's web site, back in the 60's, 70's and 80's the wine was known as "d'Arry's Burgundy" because all "medium body red wines with soft finishes" were called Burgundies. I'm sure the folks up in the Cote d'Or loved that policy.

The 2001 d'Arry's Original is a big - 15% alcohol - blend of equal parts Shiraz and Grenache that are grown in adjacent vineyards. Colors were dark opaque garnet, nearly black, in the glass. Initially the wine gave off an alcoholic nose but this quickly blew off. It opened up and presented earth and black fruits. On the palette, it was full bodied and creamy in texture. Grenache-driven flavors of ripe strawberries and cola, with underlying black pepper were abundant. Some herbal notes and subtle vanilla added complexity. Zippiness and easy going tannins are present start to finish, tying things together nicely. A flavorful and well integrated wine that has significant aging potential.

Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $15

Other value D'arenberg wines to check out are the Stump Jump (Rhone style red and white blends), Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc, Olive Grove Chardonnay, Dry Dam Reisling and the ultra-hot Footbolt Shiraz.

Beer is Good For You

2005-01-28T13:14:00.000-08:00

Sorry for the cross-over story, but this one is too good.

Man peed way out of avalanche
A Slovak man trapped in his car under an avalanche freed himself by drinking 60 bottles of beer and urinating on the snow to melt it.
Rescue teams found Richard Kral drunk and staggering along a mountain path four days after his Audi car was buried in the Slovak Tatra mountains.
He told them that after the avalanche, he had opened his car window and tried to dig his way out.
But as he dug with his hands, he realised the snow would fill his car before he managed to break through.
He had 60 half-litre bottles of beer in his car as he was going on holiday, and after cracking one open to think about the problem he realised he could urinate on the snow to melt it, local media reported.
He said: "I was scooping the snow from above me and packing it down below the window, and then I peed on it to melt it. It was hard and now my kidneys and liver hurt. But I'm glad the beer I took on holiday turned out to be useful and I managed to get out of there."
Parts of Europe have this week been hit by the heaviest snowfalls since 1941, with some places registering more than ten feet of snow in 24 hours.

Winecology: Bonny Doon - Le Cigare Volant 2001 - California

2005-01-26T18:13:00.000-08:00

The current edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by the oh-so-clever Chez Pim, carries the 'wacky wine name' theme. There is a wide and tempting range of wacky wine name possibilities, but it didn't take me long to settle on this wine from Bonny Doon vineyards.

Literally translated, "Le Cigare Volant" is French for The Flying Cigar. Or euphemistically speaking, The Flying Saucer. Pretty wacky either way you cut it. The story behind this name is even wackier.

Bonny Doon's irreverent owner, Randall Graham, was an original California Rhone Ranger. One of those pioneer winemakers to bring the wines of France's Rhone Valley stateside. Le Cigare Volant's maiden voyage was in 1984.

This particular wine is Graham's tribute to Rhone Valley's Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, viognier, cinsault and carignane. The name of the wine is his overseas potshot at those CdP winemakers, who in 1954, with very serious and grave intentions, had an ordinance passed to prevent Flying Cigars/Saucers from flying over or landing near their vineyards. Furthermore, the penalty for infringing upon this ordinance requires that any Flying Cigars/Saucers be impounded! Makes sense to me. You?

Le Cigare Volant's label does a particularly nice job of illustrating a Flying Cigar/Saucer abducting a CdP winemaker and his bullock cart.

So we've established the wacky wine name, wacky vineyard owner and a wacky story behind it all. Was the wine whacked too?

Le Cigare Volant had an opaque garnet color. After about 30 minutes of decanting, I was drawn to the aromatic nose, close-encounters-of-the-third-kind style. Copious amounts of cherry, raspberry and red licorice were highlighted by klingon-like cloaked black pepper notes. This wine is full bodied with ripe plums leading the way for plenty of dark-side fruit. Spice follows as if commanded by jedi knights. Smooth tannins provide an E.T. like backbone. Touches of acidity use gravitational pull to keep everything balanced. A light years long finish full of spice, fruit and tannins.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $30

Winecology: Sauvignon Blanc Around the World

2005-01-24T19:57:00.000-08:00

Sauvignon Blanc is one of those grape varieties that is grown successfully all around the world. However, due to the effects of climate, it can taste vastly different from one end of the globe to the other. I recently had the chance to taste and compare three such contrasting styles. The first from Sauvignon Blanc's homeland of France's Loire Valley. The second and third from the New World - California and New Zealand. The three wines varied on several dimensions like concentration, body, mouthfeel and finish. Still though, they all displayed common flavor profiles including Sauvignon Blanc's distinct gooseberry and herbaceous character.

Pascal Jolivet - Sancerre, Loire Valley - 2003
Light straw in color. Strong aromas of chalk, slate and hay with occasional citrus notes. A tingling mouthfeel and fresh zestiness was abundant. Immediate taste of gunsmoke like flintiness. Additional flavors of gooseberry, citrus, fig and "green" tree fruits. A very clean and medium length finish. This effort seemed very natural to me - an honest expression of the grape's personality. It made for a perfect dinner pairing with spinach salad and chicken breasts stuffed with goat cheese.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $16

Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc - Napa Valley, CA - 2003
It shows a nearly colorless ultra-light straw. Aromatic notes of melon, lime, grapefruit and gooseberry. On the palette only mild acidity that doesn't quite hang with ripe citrus fruitiness. It also felt a little restrained by some underlying bitterness. Her balance was out of whack. The finish was intense and lasting, albeit astringent. Somehow this particular California expression of Sauvignon Blanc was too heavy and just didn't do it for me.

In Jancis Robinson's excellent book, "How To Taste", we are told that, "the problem with Sauvignon Blanc in a warm climate is that it can rapidly lose its refreshing acidity and the zippy quality of the aroma." She goes on to explain that these nearer-to-the-equator wines often times see oak to balance natural flabbiness stemming from higher sugar/alcohol content and earlier ripening patters. Seems like a good call by Jancis.
Rating - 7.0 out of 10
Price - $21

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand - 2004
The wine was pale straw in color with a pronounced green tint. An explosive nose. Passion fruit, floral leaves, spice, minerality. Once in the mouth it felt deliciously supple offering sharp acidity and sweetness all in balance. The flavors were concentrated and pointed. Loads of pear and green apple fruits. Green vegetal flavors on a long finish that penetrates the back palette. This wine sees no oak and its totally apparent by its natural form. What a superb effort. A great match with Chicken Biryani - a not too spicy Indian dish featuring basmati rice, chicken and a medley of herbs and spices including coriander, cumin, bay leaves, saffron, cardamom, ginger and garlic.
Rating - 9.0/9.5 out of 10
Price - $14

Fine Wine Lines: Wine Expo Edition

2005-01-22T17:00:00.000-08:00

I've mentioned this before, but Wine Expo (a Southern California retailer) puts out the most entertaining weekly newsletter that I've come across. Subscribe for the laughs alone. You'll also get tons of below-the-radar insight into Italian wine - Wine Expo's specialty. Send an e-mail here to subscribe.

Some fine wine lines from this weeks edition:

"Sicilia Bianco IGT 2002 - $5.99 or
Sicilia Rosso IGT 2002 $5.99
Hey you, yeah you...wanna be chic and cosmopolitan like your Euro-Trashfriends? Start by learning to buy delicious, good with anything, quality with no brand baggage attached generic wine like this and using the savings to buy $80 Dolce & Gabanna T-Shirts ...' "

"Silvano Strologo Rosso Cònero Julius 2003, le Marche $14.99
'Captain....we’re damn near pinning the needle on the Bang for the Buck-o-Meter, I think she’s a gonna blow' 'Hang on to her, Scotty, these ribs are almost done and the Romulans are already here for dinner...try decanting it in that Dialythium Cristal vase on the counter...' "

*The Wine Cellar has no association with Wine Expo.

Lone Star Special

2005-01-21T06:09:00.000-08:00

Just one more reason to be proud of living in a blue state. Via Slate.com:

"The NYT notices a heartwarming multi-culti moment at an inauguration party. As 'at least some locals watched in dismay,' a group of Texans ordered up a Lone Star special: merlot with 7-Up, 'described as a Texas version of sangria.'"

Winecology: Chateau de Fargues - Sauternes, 2001

2005-01-20T18:28:00.000-08:00

Now, I get it. This is what sweet Bordeaux is all about. With all the hoopla surrounding the '01 Sauternes vintage and growing notoriety from the #1 billing bestowed to the 2001 Chateau Rieussec on Wine Spectator's recent Top 100 list, I had to get me some.

Chateau de Fargues has long lived in the shadow of little brother Chateau d' Yquem, the standard bearer for sweet wine worldwide. Some 300 years before d'Yquem came to be as we know it, Fargues was producing top flight wine. Both had the same owner until 1999 and today remain the product of very similar winemaking. Robert Parker has called Fargues' similarity to d'Yqeum "uncanny." Parker goes on to elaborate that Fargues won't have the 50+ year cellar life of some d'Yquem, but according to many experts, the 2001 should last three decades. And at easily one-third the price of d'Yquem and one-half the price of Rieussec, Fargues seems like a good bet.

Light gold colors with a visible texture in the glass. Powerfully aromatic and delightfully forward nose. Plenty of fruit, fig and honey. On the palette, ample and intense melons, apricot and citrus fruit. Its body of sweet light syrup is refreshingly balanced with fresh acidic notes. An ever lasting finish. Wow. Almost perfect, but I'm sure it will get better and better with age.

Rating - 9.5/10 out of 10
Price - $122

Oenoblogger Explosion

2005-01-20T18:26:00.000-08:00

Plenty of new oenobloggers out there. Many have been around for a while and are just new to me. Links are on the blogroll...check 'em out.

Winecology: Tsunami Fundraiser Tasting

2005-01-18T20:06:00.000-08:00

I had the pleasure of attending a fundraiser hosted by the Chicago chapter of the American Red Cross at Vinci Restaurant, an Italian bistro in Chicago's Lincoln Park neighborhood. Full disclosure...I'm a semi-active member of the American Red Cross of Greater Chicago Auxiliary Board. Disclosures aside, what an event. Scrumptious food, flowing wine and worthy cause. Highlights of the Italian fare included baked gnocchi in tomato sauce, grilled lamb chops, portobello and cremini mushrooms polenta and prosciuotto wrapped prawns.

Ten different purveyors of Italian wine contributed over 25 samplings for the tasting. Kudos to these distributors. In today's wine market, giving away wine for a cause is much appreciated. There were some outstanding value wines to be had this evening. A few in particular are worth note:

Cesari Mara - Valpolicella - Ripasso, 2001
Powerful nose of dark fruit. An intriguing, layered palette starts with black currant and anise. Spice on the mid-palette and and a strong, plummy finish. Fruit is well balanced with underlying tannins.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $13

Monte Antico - Sangiovesse - Tuscany, 2001
Opaque and dark rose colors in the glass. Dominant earth and saddle leather aromas with hints of strawberry. Fruit forward palette. Lots of roasted strawberries. Nice acidity levels. Smooth, round with a very good length finish.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $7

Villa Giada - Barbera d'Asti - "Suri Russ", 2003
Ripe and supple fruits are at the core of this wine. A dusty nose. Smokey with body that shows typical barbera acidity. A lasting fruit filled finish.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $9

Taurino - Salice Salentino Riserva - 2000
Most unique wine of the night. A blend of the indigenous Italian grapes - Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. Ripe cherry aromas. Spritz and concentrated grape juice on the palette. Light to medium bodied.
Rating - 8.0/8.5 out of 10
Price - $10

Fine Wine Lines

2005-01-18T19:43:00.000-08:00

The Dr. Vino Trifecta

"The numbers of those preferring 'ABC' (Anything But Chardonnay) white wine have been rising. As a result some American wineries have thankfully toned down the oak influence. The fewer 'Home Depot' wines out there, in my view, the better..."
Dr. Vino

Title of a blog post with regards to Foster's hostile takeover bid for Southcorp:

"Woop woop, there it is"
Dr. Vino

Yet another title of a blog post with regards to Foster's hostile takeover bid for Southcorp:

"The beer hunter"
Dr. Vino

Winecology: Porcupine Ridge Syrah - South Africa - 2003

2005-01-16T20:28:00.000-08:00

Porcupine Ridge is the second label of South Africa's Boekenhoutskloof Winery. Operating from this winery located on South Africa's Western Cape, winemaker Marc Kent is touted as "the inspiration for a new generation of South African winemakers." What's more his syrahs are heralded as the best "ever to have been made in South Africa." Talk about expectations. Marc's inspiration for Syrah is the Cornas appellation in France's Northern Rhone. His philosophy is to create more natural wines without an overdose of tannins or oak exposure. He succeeds with the 2003 effort.

The wine was nearly black, but closer to a deep and inky purple color in the glass. It breathed a pronounced and interesting barnyard with dark fruits and black pepper spice. The nose carried through seamlessly to the palette. Fruit was well concentrated and complimented by more black pepper and smoked bacon. The mid-palette offered a gentle bite from tannins which lasted into a solid finish.

As good as $11 syrah will probably ever get.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $11

Winecology: Domaine Alfred - Chamisal Vineyard Pinot Noir, Edna Valley 2001

2005-01-14T23:00:00.000-08:00

A fabulous pinot from the Central Coast of California. Domaine Alfred had its first vintage in 1998 but is already excelling with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Syrah and a host of specialty blends in addition to Pinot Noir. That's quite an accomplishment considering the estate replanted vines on a dormant vineyard just 8 years ago. Domaine Alfred offers two levels of Pinot - the Domaine offering and a higher-end Califa.

The 2001 Domaine Pinot Noir was bright, light ruby in color. It presented forward and intense dark cherries with earth subtly in the background. On the palette the wine delivered extracted raspberries, strawberries and luscious cherry fruit. Aging over 60% new French oak and 40% 1 to 2 year old French oak conjured up interesting woodsy notes and a velvety mouthfeel. Soft tannins provide an elegant structure. Long finish with persistent fruit.

Rating - 9.5 out of 10
Price - $28

Now if they could only doll up that label a little bit...

Is the grass greener?

2005-01-12T20:55:00.000-08:00

Is wine marketing too conservative? How big is the lost market opportunity every year?

Huge nicely stokes the flames of this debate here and here. My favorite suggestion, use more hotties in the marketing of wine to the 21-35 year-old demographic. Makes sense to me, works for beer right?

Then I come upon these U.S. market share figures recently released by the trade publication, Beer Marketer's Insights (BMI):

Let's see. Beer maintains a dominant, near two-thirds, market share. Spirits is also big-time and wine is hanging in there with some 12 to 13% of the U.S. market. Hmmm. But take a look at that 4-year trend. Beer slipping. Spirits improving and wine making big gains. The BMI article goes on to describe a fear among the beer industry of "beer fatigue" in America.

"August Busch IV, president of Anheuser-Busch Cos. brewing unit, has said wine and spirits represent a threat to his company and the entire beer industry. Miller Brewing President Norman Adami said, 'The single biggest threat facing the American beer business today is the possibility that we will allow the American consumer to get bored with beer.'"

Clearly beer's underbelly is soft and time to make a strong move is ripe. If I was running the wine marketing show, I'd take this as my cue to do two things:

For all high volume wines selling below $10 (which is the majority), turn up the volume. Shed the tired image and selectively copy what has historically worked for beer and spirits. Be cool. Be edgy. Be funny. Use hotties.
Innovate. If the beer brain trust is worried about fatigue, maybe the Coors Light twins aren't the only answer. To take that quantum leap out of the 12% to 13% share of market, retreads won't cut it. Look at packaging (a la Sofia mini). Look at viral marketing. Look at trade promotions. Look at market segmentation for your premium brands (a la Starbucks and Chopin vodka).

If all this marketing is done correctly, this could be a fun and entertaining ride for wine lovers.

Fine Wine Lines

2005-01-10T20:03:00.000-08:00

"Australia is France’s phylloxera of the 21st century"
Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast Magazine

"What is the BEST Wine? Ultra-conservatives who insist on absolutes will be aghast when we assert that the only real answer is that everything is relative, there is no Wine of the Year only the wine of the moment..."
Wine Expo (Santa Monica, CA), January 9, 2005 Newsletter

Winecology: Mitchell - Watervale Riesling - Clare Valley, Australia 2001

2005-01-10T18:52:00.000-08:00

Another great riesling from Australia. In my experience, winemakers down under are putting out some extraordinary efforts that rival Alsace in bringing out the best of this varietal. Many would argue that Australia's rieslings age more gracefully than those of the Northern Hemisphere. This particular bottling was harvested in early 2001 and already exhibits nice layers of complexity from its brief 3 to 4 year period of aging.

Andrew and Jane Mitchell have been making the Watervale Riesling for over 25 years. Mitchell's Watervale Vineyard is situated in Clare Valley's undulating hills with limestone at its base. The effects of terroir are clearly apparent in their 2001 wine. According to the winery's website the vineyard is known as Alcatraz, "a place to do penance in the cold, wind and rain of a Clare winter. Alcatraz is particularly suited to the Riesling variety." Bad news for the vineyard workers. Good news for us wine lovers.

In the glass, the wine hinted at its age with nicely developed light gold colors and green hues. It breathed oodles of floweriness that gave way to steeliness and a touch of saffron. The palette opened with fruit driven zippiness. Appealing citrus flavors of grapefruit and lemon zest were concentrated. Layers of mineral notes followed. An extended finish. Not too big or alcoholic. This makes a fantastic aperitif, but its acidity and cleanliness paired well with Chinese carryout.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $13

The Vast Gulf?

2005-01-06T20:28:00.000-08:00

Tom and Derrick discuss the differences between oenobloggers and professional wine writers in the comments thread of a recent Fermentations post. Tom's hypothesis that "there remains a vast gulf between the work of the professional and the work of those who frequent electronic stores and software emporiums" initiated the discussion.

Their point / counter-point established some reasonable notions that I, of course, would like to comment on:
(my comments in italics)

Professionals are paid and have a resultant responsibility. Professional responsibility to who? To their employers and subscribers/readers...but how about the almighty dollar and those pesky advertisers?
Professionals have editors. Spell check don't cut it. Advantage professionals.
Professionals tend to have more relevant experience. All that wine - I wish!
Professionals have a better grasp of publishing. Is that why I have a "Publish Post" button on Blogger?
Bloggers' relative inexperience can be an asset. Still looking for that never-before used tasting descriptor.
Bloggers push the topics of conversation to areas that professionals won't explore. Huge and Tom are kings of this hill.

But back to that vast gulf. Is there a cue to be taken from outside of the wine world?

I frequent blogs in the much-less-interesting-than-wine political blogosphere. Blogging pioneers like Professor Glenn Reynolds at Instapundit, John Marshall at Talking Points Memo and Grad student Josh Chafetz of OxBlog created an agenda, which the main stream press wouldn't cover, and blogged it. Many would even say Glenn got Dan Rather fired for rapidly creating/spreading the word on those ill-fated Texas National Guard documents. Or that John contributed greatly to Bernie Kerick stepping down for Dept. of Homeland Security. All three are now getting more exposure (upwards of 100,000 visits per day at Instapundit) than they ever could have dreamed of. Not to mention the occasional New York Times bylines.

I believe that one of today's wine bloggers will be published by a major media outlet in 2005. For sure that major outlet won't be Wine Spectator - but that's for their own protectionist reasons. One only has to look at the mainstream nods that Vinography has already gotten of late from the Sacramento Bee and Bon Apetit. Its coming.

Is there a gulf? Yeah, sure there is. Is it vast? I don't think so. Will it be overcome? You can bet your Cheval Blanc it will.

Winecology: Greg Norman Estates - Limestone Coast Shiraz 2002

2005-01-04T18:43:00.000-08:00

Kudos to the Shark for assembling his impressive wine empire - Greg Norman Estates. Norman along with winemakers Matt Steels and Andrew Hales have already put together an impressive run since opening up shop in 1998. Their short, noteworthy track record includes no less than 15 Wine Spectator ratings over 86 points. The Shark offers wines ranging in price from $10 up to $50 for his Shiraz Reserve.

The 2002 Limestone Coast Shiraz took me all the way back to the 1996 Masters. Certain defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. Wiley, cagey vet, Nick Faldo, on its heals. How could the finish be such a choke! Oh not really, but what Greg Norman post is complete without a reference to his storied and dramatic loss at Augusta National.

This Aussie Shiraz is sourced from several regions in South Australia including Padthaway, Wrattonbully and the top-notch Coonawarra. It had rich garnet color with a hint of pink at the edge. Aromas were very faint at first, but presented barnyard and pepper after opening up. Full bodied, velvety with fruity dark strawberry and cranberry flavors that dominate initially. Pepper and smoke add interest and complexity. A slightly astringent mid-palette with noticeable alcohol disappoint. Medium finish. A quaffer that will pair well with many foods.

Rating - 7.5 out of 10
Price - $13

Winecology: Marques de Casa Concha Merlot, Chile 2002 vs. Chateau La Croix du Casse, Pomerol 1999

2005-01-03T05:00:00.000-08:00

Old World meets New World, again.

It certainly didn't have the magnitude of the 1976 Paris wine tasting competition that pitted France versus California (nicely chronicled here at the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars website). No high powered judges. No star-studded line up of top shelf wines. No Paris. But this comparison over a great dinner of Argentine grilled meats with friends was fun and informative none-the-less.

Chateau La Croix du Casse - Pomerol, Bordeaux - 1999
This blend of predominantly Merlot with Cabernet Franc was highly recommended to me by a local wine shoppe. It is aged 24 months in 1/2 new and 1/2 old oak barrels. The wine shows a dense ruby red in the glass. Plums are apparent but understated on the nose. Tannins frame the wine's body and provide an excellent structure. Flavors of chocolate, dark plums and earth all come together nicely. A medium length finish. This is a fine, albeit subtle wine that is still a little restrained and will improve with age.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $25

Marques de Casa Concha - Merlot - Chile - 2002
A very forward wine from Chilean producer Concha y Toro. The wine spent 16 months in french oak barrels (1/3 new & 2/3 old), which influences its dark, forward and tannic flavors. This merlot had a dark purple color with hints of blue hues. An aromatic nose. Ripe fruits exploded in the mouth. Lots of plum, cranberry and spice. Sweetness from fruit is well balanced with gentle zip and velvety tannins. A lasting finish.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $15

A tie? In my mind yes. The Concha y Toro was more pronounced and concentrated, but upon reflection I enjoyed the Pomerol's subtle complexity. Its use of Cabernet Franc added some extra dimensions to the wine. Also the upside on Croix du Casse is big - I look forward to tasting it again in a year or two. My guess is the Marques de Casa Concha will mellow and develop some smokey notes, but won't become as complex as Croix du Casse. Time will tell.

Also, thanks to Googs for bringing along a terrific wine, found at a recent blind tasting we attended, to whet our palettes. The 2001 Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet is a steal. It rated nicely on both our lists among stiff competition at the tasting. For the money, you can't miss. Nice fruit and oak flavors. Smooth tannins.

Fine Wine Lines

2004-12-30T11:32:00.000-08:00

The oaked-Chardonnay slamfest continues.

"This wine managed to encapsulate everything that's wrong with California Chardonnay. I don't know why wineries bother with expensive grapes for these wines; they're just going to obliterate them in the winery. If you want to save yourself some money but get the same experience, slather some slightly rancid butter on a wet oak dowel and suck on that."
Derrick Schneider - An Obsession with Food

Via Spitoon. How does that irony taste?

"terminological commotions"
Italian professor of viticulture, Attilio Scienza, on the state of wine writing

A bad deal.

"MONDAVI LOSES WINERY, GAINS A ROAD"
Somnet.com headline

Winecology: Holiday Feasting Part 2

2004-12-28T20:53:00.000-08:00

Later during our holiday weekend in Detroit, Maya's brother cooked her father's Goan Chicken Curry recipe. The meal was a hit. Of course, curry and wine matching can be a challenge. Fortunately, we brought along a couple of Rieslings that were fit for the occasion.

Chateau Grand Traverse, Johannisberg Riesling - Dry, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan 2003
Traverse City, Old Mission Peninsula's largest city, is located in Northeastern Michigan about 250 miles from Detroit. Chateau Grand Traverse has been family-owned and operated for 30 years with a fantastic (albeit below the radar) track record of producing elegant Alsace-variety wines. The O'Keefe family has recently branched into the wines of Burgundy - including Pinot Noir, Gamay and Chardonnay. C.G.T. enjoys the Old Mission Peninsula's ideal growing conditions that include "the moderating effects of the deep waters of Lake Michigan's Grand Traverse Bay". The family also maintains state of the art winemaking equipment that produces some 20,000 cases per year.

This Johannisberg Riesling was nearly colorless with a slight green tint. The simple nose of pears was pleasing. The wine had a medium body that maintains an appreciable balance of fruits and liveliness. Granny smith apples and grapefruits were abundant on the palette. A moderate length finish. An effort resembling classic Riesling that was clean and tart enough to balance out the pungent curry spices.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $11

Chateau Ste. Michelle - Dr. Loosen 'Eroica', Columbia Valley, Washington 2000
I was pleased to stumble upon the 2000 vintage of this new classic. In Eroica's short existence it has racked up several honors and top wine scores - including a mention on Wine Spectator's Top 100 list 5 years running. The current 2003 release sits at number 68 on the well-publicized list. The wine is a collaboration of Washington's Ste. Michelle mega-producer and Germany's esteemed Dr. Loosen estate. Grapes are sourced from Washington's Yakima and Columbia valley. Both American and German winemakers are involved in production from vineyard selection to bottling.

Eroica was a colorful light gold in the glass. The nose was powerful and fruit forward and had layers of floral notes. In the mouth the powerful flavors continued with apples, pears and citrus fruit. The body was fresh. A lasting and zesty finish yielded some appealing minerality. A stellar wine that was more concentrated, robust and flavorful then its Michigan predecssor.
Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $21

Winecology: Holiday Feasting Part 1

2004-12-28T20:11:00.000-08:00

Maya and I were with family in Michigan this past weekend for holiday celebrations and feasting. We took a small stash of wine with us. All in all, we lucked out with our selections. Our first night in the Motor City was traditional Americana. Baked ham with glaze. Spinach salad. Sweet potatoes. Green bean casserole. Cranberry sauce. ALL GOOD. To accompany, we had the following four wines:

Folie a Deux - Menage à Trois, California 2002
An unusual, but tasty blend of Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. "Each variety was fermented and barrel aged separately, then blended together and given further barrel age prior to bottling." Creative winemaker, Scott Harvey has done some really good work in the past, which I've enjoyed. M.A.T. showed deep cherry red in the glass. Sweet caramel aromas on the nose. The wine had a fresh jammy body with delicate underlying structure. Ripe cherry and berry fruit flavors were followed by a smooth hint of spice. The modest finish carried spice. A good drinking wine at the price.
Rating - 8.0 out of 10
Price - $10

Montecillo Gran Reserva, Rioja 1996
The hands down winner of the night. This 100% tempranillo is a great food wine. Rioja's Gran Reserva distinction by law requires at least 5 years of barrel aging. Montecillo displayed great delicacy and didn't feel at all oaky. Its colors were ruby red with hints of brown in the rim. Dense cigar box aromas mingled with floral overtones to form a fantastic bouquet. On the palette it tasted of dark concentrated plum and berry fruits. Anise, smoke and spice added complexity. An ultra-long finish. I will be stocking up for future meals.
Rating - 9.5 out of 10
Price - $19

Beaucanon Estate, Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, CA 2000
A prototypical Cab Franc that meets the mark. This is Beaucanon's virgin effort with the varietal. Pleasant nose of earth and pepper. A fresh and fruit forward body. Lots of strawberries, smoke & tobacco. Medium finish.
Rating - 8.0 out of 10
Price - $12

Paracombe, Cabernet Franc, Adelaide Hills, Australia 2000
A very close second to the Montecillo. This is a limited run (200 cases) wine with a 90 point Parker rating, so I was pleasantly surprised to see several bottles at my local wine shoppe. Powerful aromas is an understatement! Fresh flowers and earth are pronounced. A densely flavored and concentrated body is balanced with fresh acidity. Berry fruits and spice are followed by an impressive finish.
Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $20

Winecology: Blind CA Cabernet Tasting

2004-12-22T14:20:00.000-08:00

In an effort to pass oenophile puberty, I have been sampling many old and new world Cabs lately. However, despite my best intentions (not to mention budget constraints), I just haven't been exposed to the high end of California Cabernet. I read and hear a lot about the chest-thumping cult wines and big daddies scored 95+ by Parker. But generally speaking names like Heitz, Rudd and Caymus have escaped me.

My luck changed last night. I attended a blind tasting of 30-odd California Cabernets, where there were more than a handful of these BIG wines on hand. Most of the wines were of the mid to upper tier in quality/price. All were young - an occasional '99 - but mostly of the 2000, 2001 and 2002 vintages. After reviewing my notes and looking at the who's who line-up of wines, I was surprised by a couple of observations.

On a whole, the Cabs weren't nearly as big and extracted as I had expected.
The level of consistency (or more critically speaking - homogeny) was very high across the tasting.

I'm guessing that both of these points would be less pronounced (a) after some aging, (b) with proper decanting and (c) had some good eats accompanied these food-friendly west coasters. I've written up a few of my tasting notes based upon what I really enjoyed and what surprised me the most.

Tom Eddy Cabernet, Napa Valley, CA 1999
A tie for my favorite of the tasting. A fragrant nose of creme de cassis and smoke. Rich gushing dark cherry and blueberry flavors on the palette. Creamy, smooth underlying tannins with a gentle bite. Bob Hope-like long finish.
Rating - 9.5/10 out of 10
Price - $90

White Cottage 'Risa', Napa Valley, CA 2001
The other favorite of the night. A vanilla inspired nose. Very forward cherry and raspberry fruit flavors on the palette. Notes of pepper in the 'A-plus' finish. Concentrated, yet silky tannins. Plenty of bang for the buck.
Rating - 9.5/10 out of 10
Price - $40

BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Napa Valley, CA 2001
The famous and storied BV showed well. Tannins formed a solid underlying structure - it felt like one of the biggest wines of the night. Aromas of cedar and smoke were intermixed with ripe fruits - plum and cassis. Cocoa notes on the extended finish.
Rating - 8.5/9 out of 10
Price - $72

Pine Ridge Cabernet, Stag's Leap District, CA 2001
Attractive on the nose with fruit and earthy aromas. The body was velvety as tannins already appear to be in balance. Fig flavors were pronounced. A slight zip on the finish made this effort stand out in my mind.
Rating - 8.5/9 out of 10
Price - $68

Regusci Cabernet, Stag's Leap District, CA 2001
Sweet vanilla, oak and mocha aromas. On the palette sexy smooth texture coats the mouth. Dark fruit with herbs and white pepper on the medium length finish. All the elements are well balanced in this straight forward wine. Great QPR.
Rating - 8.5/9 out of 10
Price - $27

Edge Cabernet, Napa Valley, CA 2002
Just plain good. Anise and vanilla cream on the nose. A simple body with jammy concentration. Lots of dark fruit, coffee and toasty flavors in the mouth. A modest finish. Another fantastic QPR.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $18

Rudd Cabernet, Oakville, CA 2001
My notes verbatim: "Understated nose", "Easy to drink", "Light and pleasant". Straight forward dark fruits with a touch of oak. Coffee and chocolate on the finish. A decent wine, but miserable QPR.
Rating - 8.0 out of 10
Price - $90

Caymus Cabernet, Napa Valley, CA 2002
A faint nose of dark fruits. Totally vegetal on the palette. My notes read - "attack of the killer mushrooms". Ouch. Medium length finish tasted bittersweet. Once revealed, a let down. Probably too young to enjoy, but disappointing none the less. Given Caymus' acclaim, I'd like to retaste another bottle.
Rating - 6.5(?) out of 10
Price - $60

Sex Sells Wine?

2004-12-22T07:37:00.000-08:00

There's been much mention in the wine blogosphere of wine marketing finally taking steps to shed its old school and stuffy persona. Some in the establishment are slowly moving towards edgier campaigns and imagery that appeals to Gen X.

And along comes Hip CHICKS do WINE to kick them in the ass. These ladies are "making fun wine and wine fun at their urban winery is Southeast Portland, Oregon." Proprietors Laurie Lewis (a.k.a Wine Goddess) and Renee Neely (a.k.a. Wine Maven) are putting out some very racy - and we're not talking about the acidity - wines. Check out the labels from Bad Girl Blanc, Riot Girl Rose and Drop Dead Red.

Can't speak for the quality of the wines (yet), but based on the marketing effort I will certainly give 'em a shot.

Fine Wine Lines

2004-12-20T17:53:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite non-wine bloggers, Eric Zorn, has a regular feature called 'fine lines'. Its simply a collection of well written or stated quotes that Eric posts somewhat regularly. This ringer via Huge Johnson inspired me to start something similar here at The Wine Cellar. So without further adieu, Fine Wine Lines.

"Drinking California Chardonnay is like giving a blowjob to Pinocchio"
Anonymous French winemaker

The Sideways Effect?

2004-12-17T16:08:00.000-08:00

Tom at Fermentations muses on what impact the indie film 'Sideways' will have on wine and popular culture. Specifically, he wonders,

"how this bandwagon fueled by wine will affect the consumption and appreciation of wine in America".

As I wrote here, I really enjoyed this movie. And no doubt, 'Sideways' is enjoying huge critical acclaim with all kinds of awards already wrapped up. And what's more director Alexander Payne, lead actor Paul Giamatti, supporting actor Thomas Haden Church and the film itself are locks for Oscar nominations. But what does all that mean for wine? Tom guesses that wine tourism, appreciation and more specifically Pinot Noir all get a boost. I don't really disagree. Pinot, as an underappreciated (by the mainstream) grape, will benefit.

I view 'Sideways' as a catalyst to accelerating wine's already growing presence in mainstream pop culture. For evidence, look no further than the latest P. Diddy hip hop video for the best sparklers. Or see the brilliant new packaging of Sofia mini champagne, which is a hot seller in nightclubs across urban America. Also, consider how many new wine bars are in your neighborhood? In fact, the movie's existence and popularity in and of itself is proof that more people are aware of wine, wine country, and wine appreciation.

For me, the larger question remains to be answered...

Can 'Sideways' have the same effect that the film 'Swingers' had on Vegas roadtrips, Dewar's Scotch Whisky, swing dancing and Sega Genesis NHL hockey?

Winecology: Bonny Doon 'Cardinal Zin' Central Coast, CA 2002

2004-12-15T19:47:00.000-08:00

This Zinfandel certainly packs a punch - with a personality to match that of the irreverent Bonny Doon Vineyard. If you're not familiar with Bonny Doon, check them out. A nice portfolio of wines and an owner with a some wit to boot! Their semi-regular newsletter is full of dry humor - a la The Onion for wine geeks. The last issue (all the way back to Spring '03) has some goodies. Headlines include: "Tainted! Your Wine May Have Cooties", "Trent Lott Prefers White Wine", "Urology Roundup: The Case for New Wood."

On to the wine. I've served this at home and all have reacted with a "wow." This wine is not perfect for everyone, but the Cardinal gets your attention regardless - starting with the screwcap. The wine's color is an intense, dark maroon. On the nose vanilla and spice are subtly apparent. Once on the palette, the fun begins. Lots of well balanced zing. Acidity, tannins and powerful fruit are together in harmony. Lots of rich berry fruits and hints of pepper. A lasting, but not intense finish offering cherry cola and pepper.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $17

Wine Thirves in India?

2004-12-13T19:53:00.000-08:00

Perhaps the beginning of the end to practices I ranted about here.

Winecology: Bouvet-Ladubay Rose Excellence Saumur, France NV

2004-12-12T20:24:00.000-08:00

In anticipation of New Years Eve I've been sampling sparklers whenever I get the chance. Generally speaking, these wines make a great apertif. Also they can be a fun alternative to beer or vodka tonic in 'da club' with the added benefit of letting you feel like P. Diddy.

I had this Bouvet before dinner last night. It reminded me of the gender neutral Saturday Night Live character, Pat. I really couldn't figure out what this wine was trying to be besides just blah. Things started out well as it had an appealing salmon color in the glass with huge bubbles. But it was downhill from there. The nose was non-existent. On the palette, it had an empty, tasteless effervescence. No finish to speak of. Drinkable, in a pink club soda kind of way.

Rating - 6.5 out of 10
Price - $9 for a glass. Looks like a bottle will run you about the same at retail.

Winecology: Trimbach Gewurztraminer Alsace, France 2001

2004-12-12T19:41:00.000-08:00

Alsace is yet another old world wine region with which I am trying to become more familiar. Alsace is in Northeastern France near the German border. Not surprisingly Alsatian varietals also thrive in Germany - especially Reisling and Gewurztraminer. One angle that I plan to explore on this site in the near future is how Midwestern wineries are succeeding with Alsatian varietals. Consider this sampling a baselining exercise.

Trimbach is a family-run vineyard and winery that is nearly 400 years old. You can say that their wines have had the benefit of some practice and experience. Trimbach produces wines from nearly every grape that is grown in the Alsace. This particular effort was terrific. I came upon it while looking for a good wine to accompany a spicy Thai meal. Gewurztraminer is frequently recommended with spicy Asian foods because of its dry body, zesty personality and spicy fruit flavors.

The wine had a rich golden color. Bold floral aromas gave way to loads of lychee on the nose. In the mouth it was quite simply fresh and lively. I tasted melons, grapefruit and spice. The finish was smooth and lasting enough to hold its own against some pretty tough Thai spices.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $13

Wines of India: Chateau Indage

2004-12-10T20:25:00.000-08:00

Chateau Indage aspires to be the Robert Mondavi Corporation of India. Unfortunately, with Chateau Indage the individual passion and love for winemaking that Robert Mondavi brought to Napa Valley is in short supply. Much like their website, its all style with little substance. I can hardly blame Indage as a business enterprise. Why invest the rupees and sweat equity in producing a high quality wine? Most local wine consumers aren't bothered with substance. Those that are, typically poo poo Indian wine and favor tried and true Old and New world favorites.

Indage threw me a couple major curveballs during my travels in India. On more than one occasion I ordered glasses of Indage wine - expecting to sample efforts from home grown grapes. I tasted and studied the wines hoping to uncover the essence of Indian terroir. First things first, these wines were crap. Second and more importantly they were not Indian wines, eventhough 5-star hotels and restaurants included the offerings under the India section of the winelist. Indage has established agreements whereby they import bulk shipments of wine (usually in godzilla-sized garbage bags) from places like Australia and South America. That imported garbage bag wine is then bottled and sold locally. I believe that Indage saves money by using imported wine rather than focusining on their own vineyards and wineries.

This is not to say that Indage doesn't grow and produce local Indian wines. In fact, they do just that. Outside of Bangalore, Indage grows Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and plenty of others. And guess what, the truly local wines were good. The sparkling wines I tried were quite good. As was the Chantilly Cabernet Sauvignon. Regrettably, the home-grown wines were harder to come by than the garbage bag exports like Cranswick (Australia) and Morande (Chile). For this tourist some more home cooking would have been appreciated.

Winecology: Rocche Costamagna 'Annunziata' Barbera d'Alba Piedmont, Italy 2001

2004-12-10T17:40:00.000-08:00

This was my first experience with Barbera and it was a good one. Italy is the one wine region where I have the least exposure and experience. So after opening this bottle, I did some homework. Karen MacNeil (a wine writer who's work I enjoy and also the host of a new PBS series on wine) writes that Barbera is, "Piedmont's most juicy, straightforwardly, delicious red wine." Further calling it the"stepsister" of Barolo and Barbaresco. Stepsister because, Barbera never gets equal attention from winemakers or critics as compared to the revered Barolo and Barbaresco wines. That said, if you are not deadset on a big bodied, ageworthy Piedmont wine; Barbera seems to be a fine alternative.

Rocche Costamagna seems to be a large producer of Barbera as well as Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont. Unfortunately, the English version of their website is under construction making it hard to learn much about the vineyards or winery. This offering had inky magenta colors. The nose was strong and aromatic. Chocolate, cassis and spice were all present making for quite a bouquet. On the palette it was simply luscious, well balanced with soft, velvety tannins. The finish was lasting and put forth cocoa and plummy fruits. All throughout there was a nice zip from the acidity - which I understand is typical of Barbera.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $16

WBW #5 Announced

2004-12-06T18:04:00.000-08:00

Pim is hosting the coolest Wine Blogging Wednesday theme so far - wacky-name wines. The only criteria for the wine is that its name be "weird, strange, ironic, or funny". Don't know where to start? For a great cheat sheet head over to Peter May's Unusual Wine Labels.

Wines of India: Sula Vineyards

2004-12-05T19:30:00.000-08:00

Sula Vineyards is situated in Nasik, 120 miles from Mumbai in the state of Maharashtra - a coastal state in west central India. Nasik is 2000 feet above sea level with hills and a moderate climate suitable to grape growing. Sula's website draws comparisons between Nasik's terroir to the wine growing regions of Spain, Australia and California.

Sula was founded by a California educated former Silicon Valley engineer, Rajeev Samant. Under the guidance of Sonoma winemaker, Kerry Damskey, Sula planted its first wine grapes in early 1997 on Samant's family land that once grew mangos. My experience with Sula's wines (whites only) showed that the vineyards mango roots came through in unique tastes (more in the notes below). Sula's initial focus was on Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, both varietals were new to India when Sula planted the vines.

Today, Sula is available widely across India in wineshops, restaurants and hotels. The wines are also exported to the U.S. and Europe. I briefly searched online resources like wine-searcher and froogle and found several retailers selling their wines.

Sula Vineyards Brut NV
One of two sparkling wines offered by Sula, it is made from three different white grapes varieties sourced from eight vineyards. Sula's website and the bottle didn't specify the specific varieties used. The wine displayed pale gold colors with big bubbles. The nose had subtle tree fruits with pronounced spice and pungent minerals. On the palette it offered a lush mouthfeel and the spice flavors hinting at curry! The finish was of medium length and resonated chalky minerals and some nut flavors. A solid offering.
Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - I paid about $7.50 for a glass at a fine Indian restaurant, but a bottle can be had for $10

Sula Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Made from Sula's estate grapes. The wine had very light nearly transparent straw color in the glass. It offered mango, melon and grapefruit aromas. In the mouth the wine was round and started with a nice tart zing, which unfortunately doesn't last. The finish hinted at melons and was also too short. Fortunately with food, the flavors and sensations became much more pronounced. A good meal wine.
Rating - 8.0 out of 10
Price - $10 (same as above)

Back in Action Soon

2004-12-02T05:31:00.000-08:00

Apologies for not posting lately. My trip to India has been crazy hectic - but will be back in the U.S. this weekend. I've tried several Indian wines and will be posting the tasting notes. Also will post my observations on wine's status within Indian culture.

Winecology: Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling South Australia 2003

2004-12-01T21:27:00.000-08:00

My Wine Blogging Wednesday luck continues to go well. For WBW #4 Derrick at an Obsession With Food has chosen a New World Riesling theme. This time around I had my wife select the wine since we have several bottles of Riesling in the collection. She selected the 2003 Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling. Anybody who has been in a wine shop or grocery store wine section will have most certainly stumbled across a Jacob's Creek wine. Jacob's Creek is an Australian mega-producer that has been around for roughly 30 years. I have had consistently good experiences with their wine, which are almost all in the less than $15 price range and widely available.

The 2003 Reserve Riesling is sourced from several appellations in South Australia. The winemaker's notes highlight that three individually made wines were blended,

"to capture the attributes from each region. The rich floral fruit of Barossa Valley Riesling, the lemon citrus of Eden Valley and the tropical lime characters of Clare Valley have been combined to produce and (sic) Jacobs Creek Reserve Riesling of outstanding quality."

My experience with the wine confirms the successful blending from the three regions. The wine had a light straw color in the glass with distinct green hues. It also showed striking clarity. The aromas of citrus fruit and floral were pronounced. This dry Riesling brought immediate tartness and crispness to the palette. The wine had a mouth-filling effervescence. Fresh lemon-lime flavors transitioned into mineral notes that echoed throughout the long finish. A steal at the price.

I enjoyed the wine with an entree-sized spinach salad complete with grilled chicken, goat cheese, red onions, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $11

Winecology: Australian "Jam Bombs" Tasting

2004-11-16T21:51:00.000-08:00

I know that "Jam Bombs" may sound like something the Wu Tang Clan, 50 Cent or Dr. Dre might host. But it was actually a tasting of Australian wines held at the Tasting Room/Randolph Wine Cellars on the west side of Chicago. The tasting was held in an upstairs loft with a fantastic view of the Chicago skyline and featured 30+ Australian reds and whites. I've highlighted a few of the wines (all reds) that I enjoyed, rated highly or otherwise thought were noteworthy.

Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa 2001
A boutique winery where the entire winemaking process is done by hand. Wines are made from low yielding old vines. The name refers to the petrol engine-driven wooden baskets that crush the grapes. The wine had dark ruby colors in the glass. The nose was powerful with sweet berry aromas. It had a luscious full texture in the mouth with a solid finish. I understand this wine cellars very well - for 10 years or longer - before reaching its peak.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $70

Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2003
Another product of low yield vines. The Mitolo G.A.M. was dark purple to inky colored. It had a deep, dense nose of honey, pepper and strawberries. The mouthfeel was full and balanced by sensations of tartness. Long finish. Parker has just rated this wine a 96 to 100 in the Wine Advocate. Not surprisingly that rating has resulted in prices as much as 50% higher than the tasting offering noted below.
Rating - 9.0/9.5 out of 10
Price - $50

Nepenthe Red Tryst, Adelaide 2003
An unusual combination of 60% Cabernet, 25% Zinfandel and 15% Tempranillo. The nose hinted at pepper. In the mouth it felt a bit tight and immature with a mouthfeel that was a bit thin. It did show some nice underlying tannins.
The finish was short-to-medium length. Perhaps this wine will open up and improve as it matures.
Rating - 8.0/8.5 out of 10
Price - $12

Torbreck 'The Factor', Shiraz, Barossa 2002
A lot of initial appeal with rich chocolate aromas on the nose. Once on the palette it seemed slightly out of balance as the tannins were mellowed by the wine's tartness. Flavors of chocolate and berries carried forward to an impressive finish. Another highly rated (99 points) Parker wine with a price to match.
Rating - 8.5/9.0 out of 10
Price - $106

Torbreck 'The Steading', Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, Barossa 2001
This blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Shiraz and 20% Mourvedre showed dark purple colors in the glass. It had a very concentrated nose with lingering pepper, earth and berry aromas. Big berry fruit flavors presented themselves in the mouth. Tartness that seemed in balance. A lasting finish.
Rating - 9.0/9.5 out of 10
Price - $33

Stella Bella, Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River 2001
This Western Australia beauty was my favorite of the night. Blended with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. It had a warm appearance in the glass. Bold aromas of syrup, caramel and honey were on the nose. In the mouth it was slightly thin but showed complex flavors of pepper, earthiness of wood chips that turned into dark fruits. The plum-like fruits resonated through the long finish.
Rating - 9.5/10 out of 10
Price - $27

Sipping with Parker

2004-11-14T21:36:00.000-08:00

Alder describes a very cool and unique opportunity to drink and discuss wine with Robert Parker. This dream meeting is akin to watching a movie with Roger Ebert, shooting some hoop with Michael Jordan or watching a football game with John Madden. Alder describes how he interprets and uses Parker's ratings in his own wine pursuits and how Parker personally differs from his writings in the Wine Advocate. I found it useful as I'm still wrestling with what wine writing to invest my time and money in.

Wine in India

2004-11-14T19:48:00.000-08:00

My wife and I are taking a vacation and traveling in India over the next several weeks. I hope to try some Indian made wines and discover the country's small but growing wine culture. I've been doing a little research and have even been in contact with some local wine enthusiasts. Unfortunately our travels won't be taking us to areas where most vineyards are located - cities such as Nasik, Pune and Bangalore. However, we'll certainly be seeking out wine bars and restaurants with quality wine lists in New Delhi and Bombay.

Wine still enjoys only limited popularity in India where beer and spirits (particularly scotch) are the drinks of choice. Average per capita wine consumption is only 4.5 ml (less than a glass). Compare that to France where the average Frenchman drinks 40+ liters per year! My hunch is that a few key factors drove this fact:

Exorbitant national, state and local import duties drive prices to insane levels. A bottle of Gallo Chardonnay that typically sells for around ten bucks here in the states can go for as much as $70!
An historic lack of grapes grown for the purposes of winemaking
Conservative social views on drinking
A difficulty in pairing and enjoying wine with spicy Indian food

I'm happy to say all of these challenges are being overcome and wine is building a presence in Indian culture. My initial homework has pointed to three leading local producers - Chateau Indage, Grover Vineyards and Sula Wines. Its exciting to note that these wineries are producing wines across the gamut of varietals - from big Cabernet reds to sparkling whites to Sauvignon Blanc!

We arrive in New Delhi on Friday, so stay tuned for some Sub-continental tasting reports...

Winecology: Shea Wine Cellars Willamette Valley, OR Pinot Noir 2001 vs. Peachy Canyon Incredible Red Zinfandel Bin 115 Paso Robles, CA 2002

2004-11-08T20:51:00.000-08:00

An interesting tandem of wines. I had both of these with an early Thanksgiving dinner we hosted this weekend. The Shea Pinot was with the meal and the Peachy Canyon Zin with leftovers a couple of nights later. I had understood that both Pinot and Zin make good matches for turkey, gravy, stuffing and other Thanksgiving yummies. These two wines lived up to the billing by complimenting the diverse meal flavors while not overpowering all the good seasonings we poured into the food - sage, thyme and cloves to name a few!

Shea Wine Cellars is a fairly new (1996) Oregon winery, however the vineyard has long supplied grapes to many notable wineries including - St. Innocent, Ken Wright Cellars and Sin Qua Non. Shea's reputation as a high quality source of Pinot Noir grapes is well deserved after tasting their own 2001 bottling. The wine was light ruby in the glass with a pleasant and aromatic nose. In the mouth the wine was supple with big fruit flavors. The finish was long with nice tartness balancing the soft tannin structure.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $27

Peachy Canyon has earned a solid reputation as a producer of classic Paso Robles zinfandel. The 2002 Incredible Red Bin 115 seems to fit the mold and check-off all of the classic zinfandel boxes - but just did not knock my socks off. The wine showed dark red and purple colors in the glass. The nose slightly hinted of berry fruit. Once in the mouth it was appealing with a light jammy texture, but missed out by not achieving the thick and chewy texture of high quality zins. Soft flavors of blueberry turn into strong black pepper. The finish was of medium length and resonates the pepper notes. A good wine value.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $9

Wine at the Supreme Court

2004-11-07T16:36:00.000-08:00

A nice article in today's L.A. Times (registration required) provides a concise summary of the upcoming U.S. Supreme Court case on interstate wine shipping. I enjoyed the article because it simply boiled downed the myriad of complicated legal and regulatory issues surrounding the case. Essentially, alcohol wholesaler-distributors want to prevent wineries from broadly selling wine directly to consumers. Today, wineries can only do this in instances where states have reached individual agreements. Evil and entrenched wholesaler-distributors are using prohibition-era laws to make their case. The following quote from the wholesaler-distributor association in the Supreme Court case nicely summarizes their pea brain point-of-view:

"The wine industry has flourished under this system," said Karen Gravois, the wholesalers' vice president for public affairs. "Most Americans like it."

Oh yeah, and the slave industry flourished under its dead wrong but legal system. And way back in the day, most American liked that, too.

The Revolution...

2004-11-04T21:04:00.000-08:00

...most certainly will not be on the new and "improved" winespectator.com. Clearly Marvin Shanken Communications, Inc. just doesn't get it. Fifty bucks per year (twenty-five for print subscribers) to access their website content. And eRobertParker.com? Even better at one hundred big ones per year whether you subscribe to The Wine Advocate or not. Don't get me wrong, I get the profit motive. I'm a management consultant who advises clients on how to maximize the bottom line. I just don't think a pay-to-play model is going to further their (already dying?) cause.

Eight issues into my WS subscription, I'm already unimpressed and a little bored. And at $50 per year for 17 issues with a touted 500 wine reviews per issue that's not good. The Wine Advocate will cost you $60 per year with 6000 wines reviewed over the one-year subscription. From what I gather, WA is more of a no-nonsense publication. So in honor of Mr. Shanken's marketing move...Top Reasons I Will Fire Wine Spectator.

Awkward magazine size that fits in nothing I own
Pretentious photographs of people lying in lawns cradling a glass of wine (don't believe me? Take a closer look)
Shanken's mug toasting me on page ten of every issue
Orwellian influence on my wine purchases
Published ratings for wines that are no longer widely available
Published ratings for wines that were never widely available
Pay-based web site content

So having ranted and bashed WS, I do actually have a suggestion (a concept that might have helped my man Kerry take a couple million votes away from W43). Read a good retailer's newsletter. These folks taste a lot more wine than you or me. At their best, these newsletters are well written and seriously informative. Anywhere from a couple to 30+ pages in length, a newsletter can contain regional tasting reports, vintage reports, wine reviews, spotlights on lesser known wineries...and guess what? When available, they usually give you the WS/WA tasting note and score too!

Biased opinions that are just pushing product you say? Maybe. But do you think WS's Top 100 list is pure and without bias? Plus if you read a few with any regularity you'll get a good dose of "Caveat Emptor" and comparison shopping. So here are a couple of suggestions to get you started.

Wine Country: monthly downloadable PDF file
K&L Wine Merchants: monthly downloadable PDF file, request a weekly 'new arrivals' e-mail update
Wine Expo: request a weekly e-mail
The Wine Club: monthly downloadable PDF file
Porthos: request a semi-regular e-mail update
Premier Cru: request a bi-weekly new arrivals e-mail newsletter

Know of any others? Let's stick it to Marv!

Winecology: Green Point Victoria Shiraz 2002

2004-11-03T20:10:00.000-08:00

For Wine Blogging Wednesday #3 I lucked out with this top notch Shiraz from the Yarra Valley in Australia. I really hadn't picked out a wine until I got home tonight and took a look at my stash. I received this wine as a birthday gift a couple of weeks ago from a friend. I wasn't familiar with Green Point at the time and put the bottle away for a another day. Well, as I was rummaging through the 4 or 5 Aussie Shiraz bottles I had it home, I saw the Green Point. The name struck me this time around because I had just read a favorable review (93 points) in November's Wine Spectator.

Based on what I've been drinking lately, Australian wines (especially Shiraz) are definitely some of the highest 'quality to price' values available today. When you think of what top quality California Cabs, any Pinot Noir, Bordeaux or Burgundy fetch, the abundance of great Australian Shiraz is a relative steal. So propers to Viv at Seattle Bon Vivant for the WBW selection.

Green Point vineyards is in the heart of Victoria's Yarra Valley. From what I gather, the vineyard is owned by Domaine Chandon Australia - which is of course of Moet and Chandon fame. As such, Green Point has a fairly substantial offering of sparklers in addition to still wines.

On to the wine...It had beautiful, deep and intense ruby colors in the glass. The nose was slight but hinted of berries and flat cola. On the palette it had a succulent mouthfeel. The flavors were concentrated and showed big, dark berry fruits combined with pepper notes. The wine had a firm structure and backbone from the tannins. Mild acidity and tartness provided balance. The finish was long, didn't bring any new flavors, but keeps the existing ones going and going while accentuating soft tannins.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $16

Three Strikes and ... "Sideways"

2004-10-30T11:45:00.000-07:00

I'm learning some good lessons about finding good wines by the glass. Yesterday evening I was really in the mood for some wine. But it turned into a good example of where/when not to drink wine and just stick with a good old cold glass of beer. The three strikes:

1. Office happy hour at an upscale hotel (a little surprised by this one)
2. Eating Indian food (the spices just kill wine flavors)
3. Quick stop at a neighborhood bar prior to the movies (where the wine list was hand written on the the back a waitress' order pad - and noted simply as Syrah, Cabernet, Pinot, etc. - no appellation, vineyard, vintage, etc.)

After those mishaps, my wife and I caught "Sideways" the new film by Alexander Payne. The movie has already received a ton of press and good reviews, not to mention notoriety in the wine world because of its use of wine as a central theme. Like some of his previous movies ("Election", "About Schmidt") it was hysterically funny at times and dark at others. All in all, an enjoyable flick built upon a clever screenplay and top notch acting. The wine theme thins out towards the end as the relationships between characters takes centerstage, as it should. That said wine and some of the redicuolus things we do when tasting wine were showcased enough for my wife to give me quite a few elbow jabs during the show.

Movie Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Ticket Price - $9

Winecology: Scott Harvey Syrah 2002 Amador County, CA

2004-10-26T20:41:00.000-07:00

I was reading some of my favorite wine blogs last week looking for a good, hearty red for a party my wife and I had this weekend. I came upon this raving review of Scott Harvey's 2001 Syrah at Vinography.

"If I had to pick one wine that has consistently blown away everyone I have served it to in the last year, the Scott Harvey would be the wine...Perhaps the best $18 I have spent on wine in the last year."

I took note and went looking for the wine. Scott Harvey's wine is unfortunately fairly hard to come by due to limited production. Porthos, an online retailer specializing in service and access to little known wine gems, was selling the 2002. I decided to pass on buying from Porthos because I needed the wine in just a few days for the aforementioned party.

So this past Saturday, I went to Sam's Wine Superstore (one of my favorite local spots to shop due to the exceptional selection, prices and service) to find some bottles for the party. As chance would have it, the Scott Harvey Syrah 2002 was being offered for tastings! I tasted - loved it - and decided to buy. In the mean time, I started chatting with the Scott Harvey representative - who turned out to be none other than, Scott Harvey himself. Definitely an interesting guy who offered some first hand insights about his wine. Its a very cool opportunity to talk about a wine with the winemaker himself.

Now here's a question for you all. Scott was autographing his bottles of wine. Is this common practice? It seemed a little weird...but I guess there are more parallels between my wine-crazed leanings today and those of my baseball card collecting youth.

On to the wine. It was really, really very good. Certainly the best wine I've had since keeping tasting notes and ratings. The nose was intense. In the mouth flavors showed complexity moving from berry to pepper to minerals and earth. The wine had a velvety mouth feel. Lasting finish.

Rating - 9.5 out of 10
Price - $14

Winecology: Taz Chardonnay 2002 Santa Barbara County, CA vs. Black Star Farms "Arcturos Sur Lie" Chardonnay 2002 Old Mission Peninsula, MI

2004-10-24T21:10:00.000-07:00

I drank these two very different chardonnays earlier this week and am just getting around to posting my notes. Because I'm still a learning oenophile I enjoy tasting two wines made from the same grape side by side. It gives me an opportunity to (a) understand the range a wine made from a particular grape can take and (b) figure out what my personal preferences are within that range of tastes, aromas, textures, etc. As chance would have it, these two wines were so different that it presented a perfect opportunity to explore chardonnay's range. The impacts of each winemaker's process and the varying terroirs had an appreciable impact.

Taz is a really big, heavy duty wine. It had gold colors in the glass and powerful toasty vanilla aromas. The oak-induced flavors of toast, smoke and coffee were intense and overwhelming. The finish was solid. This is a good wine that likely had some lengthy barrel aging. The oak flavors dominate and ultimately create a larger-than-life white wine, of which I'm not a fan. Perhaps with time hearty whites will grow on me, but for the moment...I'll pass.

Rating - 7.5 out of 10
Price - $20

"Arcturos Sur Lie" is from Black Star Farms, located "up north" in Michigan - near Traverse City. I picked this up from their tasting room in Paw Paw just off of I-94 while driving home from Detroit. I'll try and feature more Midwestern wines because I feel they're underexposed and in my limited experience pretty good (especially when made from Alscace style grapes). This wine was more subtle and fruity than Taz. It had light straw colors in the glass. The nose had delicate aromas of mineral and citrus fruits. In the mouth, the flavors went from grapefruit to vanilla. The finish was lasting and zesty.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $10

Winecology: Domaine Boudin - Chablis Premier Cru - “Fourchaume” - 2002 Burgundy

2004-10-19T19:36:00.000-07:00

I really liked this white Burgundy from what I understand to be a classic French vineyard. Rosemary George in the Wines of Chablis writes, "Most of the wines from this fascinating estate reflect the personality of their maker, elusive and full of character. This is a star domaine." I think its a great buy for the quality and Chablis experience - which I've found to be distinct from California chardonnay.

The wine's color was dark straw and almost gold. The nose was clean with distinct pear aromas. Minerals and some citrus notes added to the complexity. On the palette it was full and abundant. This is definitely a dry wine - but the acidity was nicely balanced by nuanced sweetness. Flavors of tree fruits like pear and granny smith apple presented themselves initially. I also picked up toasty notes (from oak aging) and mineral freshness. The finish was of solid length and added some honey.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $17

Winecology: Hewitson - “Miss Harry” 2003 - Barossa Valley, Australia

2004-10-17T21:22:00.000-07:00

I enjoyed this Aussie with my wife while rooting for the Red Sox to rally against the Yankees (we're frustrated Cubs fans and can relate to the BoSox's troubles). The wine is made from Rhone varietals - 45% Grenache, 40% Shiraz and 15% Mourvèdre.

It was bright in the glass with dark purple and ruby colors. Initially, the nose was slight and understated but subtle berries and smoke came through after opening up. The wine had a great, dry body in the mouth - balancing grip and roundness. The flavors were complex and evolving. It started with black pepper, likely from the Grenache. After moving on to concentrated fruits - plums and figs - the wine ended with loads of pepper and wood. The finish was of medium length and carried forward the spice notes. After spending some time in the bottle, the flavors became more jammy and intense. A very good wine - which at the time of this posting provided Sox enough luck to get into extra innings.

Rating - 8.5 out of 9
Price - $16

Winecology: Terrazas de los Andes - "Alto" Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 - Mendoza, Argentina

2004-10-16T21:30:00.000-07:00

A simple, but enjoyable cabernet from Argentina. The Alto is the most basic line of Terrazas' wines with grapes souced from all over the Mendoza region. The colors were dark garnet in the glass and sediment was visible. On the nose the wine's aromas weren't very powerful but had plum notes. In the mouth tannins provided a firm structure. Again the flavors were not overwhelming, but dark raisins, fruity jams and oak presented themselves. A decent experience at a decent price.

Rating - 8.0 out of 10
Price - $12

Winecology: Adelsheim Vineyards - Pinot Noir 2002 Oregon

2004-10-14T14:10:00.000-07:00

I had this wine over dinner the other night with family and loved it. Adelsheim Vineyards is in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. This is their Oregon Series wine made with grapes from multiple vineyards - 95% of which are estate farmed.

The wine's color was light purple and slightly opaque. It had powerful, delicious, earthy aromas that bordered on funky (I believe the experts call this gamey). I really enjoyed sniffing the wine for several minutes prior to tasting. Once in the mouth I enjoyed the delicate balance of roundness and bite from tannins. The flavors started with berries and faded to spice. The finish was as intense as the nose.

Rating - 9.0 out of 10
Price - $20

I've included a picture of the bottle label below (from the 2001 vintage), because you just don't find many wine labels with a painting of a half-naked woman. Adelsheim's website clarifies that this is a picture of Diana Lett, co-founder of Eyrie Vineyards. She is a Pinot Noir pioneer in Oregon and friend to the owners of Adelsheim. Good wine and paintings of nude friends!

A Word or Two on Wine Scores

2004-10-13T21:32:00.000-07:00

I by no means have the million dollar palette of Robert Parker, but for most of us who is Parker anyway? Just another numerical data point...who tastes a ton, gets paid a ton and who's books weigh a ton. Well, maybe after 25 years you get to be the shiznet and rate wines on a 100 point scale.

I on the other hand, thanks to some coaching from bloggers wiser than me, will be rating with a 10-point scale. Quite simply (and simplicity is the point) its a lot like grade school - anything below a 6.0 (i.e. a D) is a failure and anything above a 9.0 (i.e. an A) is some pretty outstanding stuff. For more on adventures in numerical wine scoring go here, here, here or here.

There's plenty of debate on the merits of wine scoring. Personally, I have three reasons for scoring wines.

I take pleasure in tasting, describing those tastes and quantifying how much I enjoyed those tastes. I can't help it. I'm a math geek, it's in my DNA.
I look forward to seeing how a wine evolves, improves or degenerates over time.
Given a choice, I'd rather drink a wine (or style of wine) that I had previously rated as a 10.0 rather than a 7.5.

Again these reasons are personal. The merits of Parker or Laube rating wines is another issue all together. Which will be discussed here at a later date.

Welcome to the Cellar

2004-10-13T20:45:00.000-07:00

"The revolution will not be televised"
- Gil Scott-Heron

Welcome. I thrilled to be here! This is my first foray into online publishing and why not wine? I'm fairly new to that too. I believe that this blog will be a great medium to learn more about wine - tasting it, collecting it and writing about it. Wine in the blogosphere is still a relatively new thing (check out some of my favorites in the blogroll). I'm looking forward to participating in the 'revolution' and hopefully erasing some of the dogma that goes along with enjoying wine. Now if only we could get those Coors Light twins to endorse Yellow Tail!

A point on organization. Because Blogger doesn't have the ability to categorize posts, my tasting posts will all start with the term "Winecology". All other posts on assorted wine and non-wine thoughts will be posted as-is...at least for the time being.

Winecology: Bodegas Mustiguillo - "Mestizaje" 2002 Valencia, Spain

2004-10-12T19:55:00.000-07:00

Tasted this spanish whoppper at a wine bar in my neighborhood - Webster's Wine Bar. I've only been there a couple of times but plan to become more of a regular. The staff was knowledgeable and the ambiance was great for sipping and tasting. The prices seemed in-line with what I've come to expect for drinking wine out in the city; i.e. not the best value for your wine, but being out and about plus having access to a variety of wines by the glass makes up for some of the money not-so-well spent.

On to the wine...it's a unique (to me anyway) blend of 50% Bobal with the balance made up of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Grenache. Bobal is a black grape that produces deeply colored wines. It is grown in the southwest of Spain and is the "star" of the Denomination of Origin of Utiel-Requena.

Parker called it, "a delicious wine as well as an excellent value." And in this instance I have to agree with the man. The wine had a dark ink-like purple color in the glass. The nose was intense, concentrated and in your face straight forward (in a good way it reminded me a little of cough syrup). The complex aromas hinted of spice and black currant. The attack was immediate. The wine had a thick texture in the mouth with anis and raspberry flavors in the finish. Regretfully, it didn't hang around my palette quite long enough.

Rating - 8.5 out of 10
Price - $15 (although I paid about six bucks for a glass)

Unfortunately I'm about a week late for Wine Blogging Wednesday #2 hosted by Alder over at Vinography that focused on Spanish Reds. Learn more about Wine Blogging Wednesday here. Participate in November's Wine Blogging Wednesday (Aussie Shiraz) by visiting here.